After a year’s work and many thousands of
Dinera, you’ve finally pulled your project out of the shop. Certainly
the
months you spent boxing the chassis, installing the suspension parts,
and
fabricating trick motor and transmission mounts are showing real
promise.
You’ve gone through the moves to get it right, putting the final loving
touches on what should be a smooth ride. And it is - almost. Everything
is fine except for that nagging vibration that courses through your
finger
tips on the wheel, shakes the seat of your pants, and insults your ears
with a constant echoing howl. Although you’ve done your best to find
the
offending defective part, at some point you begin to suspect that your
hands have made some critical error your brain won’t let you see.
You’ve
visited the alignment shop twice (maybe more than one shop) only to
discover
that the rims are straight, everything is in good balance, the axles
are
aligned, and no excess tire run-out exists. You replaced apparently
flawless
U-joints, and had the driveshaft checked
for
balance and straight-ness. You checked
clearances and run-out in the differential, and maybe even swapped a
set
of bearings out. At some point you discover that you’ve either replaced
or thoroughly inspected and passed on everything you can think of, and
the vibration is still keeping you up nights.
When you find that
the U-joints are starting to show premature wear, you start looking for
some fool with bad batteries in his hearing aid, a serious case of the
shakes, and money burning holes in his
pocket who’ll take
this nightmare off your hands.
But
wait!
Before you give up, there’s one last thing
(actually it should have been one of the first things) that
you
should check. It’s a condition called
driveline/universal joint cancellation, and has everything to do with
what
is often referred to as pinion angle. It’s another one of those often
misunderstood
and often neglected issues that brings out a lot of heated debate
whenever
it gets discussed. The reason is that there are a number of variables
concerning
both the equipment and the use of the vehicle that can
change
how you want to set up the driveline.To
get to the bottom of this subject and provide the best
and
most reliable information available, lets take
driveline geometry and troubleshooting
down to what we feel are the most common problems you will
encounter.
Basic
Geometry
In practical
terms, when you build your
chassis and locate the driveline components, you need to create a
situation where the angle between a line
drawn though the center of the transmission output shaft A
and
a line drawn though the center of the driveshaft
B
is to equal but opposite the angle between a line drawn though the
center
of the pinion shaft C and the line drawn though the
center
of the driveshaft B.
If you
visualize
this correctly,you
will see that the lines drawn though the pinion and
the
transmission shafts (A,C) are parallel to each other but not in the
same plane
(one
is above the other).

The centerlines of
the transmission output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion have a specific
relationship
that
MUST be maintained
to work correctly. Angle 1 and Angle 2 must be equal (but opposite) and
centerline A and centerline C must be parallel but NEVER the same.
Angles
1 and 2 must always be at least 1 degree but
generally not more
than 3 degrees. This means that the angles between the shop floor and
the
shafts should be identical if you are to achieve cancellation. This is
most simply done with a tool called an inclinometer. Every driveshaft
or
chassis shop will have one, and you can get a perfectly serviceable
tool
from your local discount hardware for around $10 (a dial level). To set
up or correct these angles, you can alter the transmission mounting,
shim
the transmission mount, slip angled shims (a parts-store, speed shop,
or
4WD repair shop item) between the axle spring pad and the spring, or
otherwise
rotate the pinion into position depending on what type of rear
suspension
you are using. For example, if you have a four-bar setup, you can
shorten
the upper bars and lengthen the lower bars by the same amount to rotate
the pinion upward without altering the wheelbase. Reverse this
procedure
to rotate the pinion downward.
Because the
angles
you are concerned with are measured solely in terms of their
relationship
between
each of the three adjacent components of the driveline, the
levelness
of the floor
or angle of the
chassis to the pavement is not relevant. Just be sure to check all
angles
with the
vehicle set up
and loaded as it will be under most conditions.
Vibration? What
Vibration?
To prevent or cure
a vibration problem,
the first thing you need is to understand what’s causing
the vibration. Take a deep breath, settle
back and bear with me. Even if you don’t catch on right
away, by the time you’ve reached the end,
you’ll know what you need to. Trust me.
First of all,
the driveline is always set up with the driveshaft
with
at least
one degree of angle between it and both the transmission
output shaft
and the
differential
pinion shaft so that the universal joints "flex" as they rotate.
The reason for this practice is to prevent
running the roller bearings in the same position at all
times
which eventually pushes the grease
away from the bearing surface, limiting lubrication, and ending in
brinelling
(those little ribbed marks that mean the death of a U-joint). By
presetting
a slight angle,
the
joint is put in a situation where each
cup and bearing assembly rotates around the U-jointcross
from
front to rear twice per revolution.
This assures an even coating of grease and prevents
a wear
pattern setting up, but creates a
scenario which has a lot of potential negative results.
Cancellation
If the driveline
is set up with a degree
or more angle, the
U-joint cross rotates with the
transmission
shaft in a circular motion and also moves from front to rear.
If
viewed in cross
section,
with rotation occurring in a counterclockwise motion, both arms of the
U-joint
cross
fixed in the driveshaft yoke are closest to a simple circular path at 3
and 9 O’clock.
From
3 to 12 O’clock, each arm (remember it is mechanically attached to the
driveshaft)
accelerates
as it moves toward the rear of the vehicle. It decelerates from 12 to 9
o’clock
as
the arm of the cross returns to center, accelerates from 9 to 6
O’clockas
it moves toward
the
front of the vehicle, and finally decelerates from 6 to 3 O’clock to
complete
one revolution.
Visually, as seen
from the correct angle, the actual path the cross arms follow is an
ellipse.
The speed of
these
arms when graphed, is seen as a regular sine wave reflecting
aceleration
- deceleration cycles. Finally, considering the U-joint cross arms
alternately
speed up and slow
down twice per
revolution, this also means the driveshaft - being mechanically linked
to them
must also
speed up and slow down at the same rate.
You may not have thought about it,
but
there is a reason why U-joints are used in pairs.
You see,
as
one U-joint is going through its alternating cycle, so is the other -
but
because the opposite end of the shaft is installed at an opposite
angle,
the cycle occurs at exactly opposite timing.
If
the joints are in phase, and the angle between the driveshaft and the
equipment
at both ends is the same, the acceleration/deceleration cycles
tend
to cancel out,
resulting in smooth, silent operation.
This
is called cancellation.
To get very
technical, when the rotational
inertia (the tendency for the mass of moving
parts to continue moving
along a given path) combines with the acceleration/deceleration
cycles described above,
what is called an excitation torque is produced. The more out
of cancellation, the
higher the excitation torque becomes and the worse the vibration.

As seen from the end view,
the path that the bearing cups takes is an ellipse, rotating
forward and backward
as well as in a its path around the centerline of the shaft. From
the side view, the path
appears as an angled line, again showing that the cup ends move
in more than one plane.
Because of this front to back movement, the speed of the cups
accelerates and decelerates
twice per revolution.
Poor
cancellation
If cancellation is
not achieved, you have
a regular rotation on the transmission end translating through
the U-joint into the acceleration/deceleration
cycles in the driveshaft, but the translation back to a regular
rotation
through the U-joint at the differential is not achieved. Under these
conditions,
the alternating cycle of acceleration/deceleration is first taken up by
any free-play in the driveline.
Bearing surfaces begin to take a beating
somewhat akin to what occurs if a piston wrist pin has excess play. The
result is not only a noise, but a vibration which means reduced bearing
life throughout the driveline and which tends to focus energy on the
weakest
point. Most often this is in the U-joints, but pinion bearings and
transmission
bearing wear as well. When free-play doesn’t allow enough slack, parts
not designed to flex begin to do so in an effort to absorb the uneven
energy
transfer.
In some cases,
the
driveshaft literally begins to twist and untwist (this is
called
torsion)
at a frequency
which can be both heard and felt as vibration.
It doesn’t take
too much imagination to understand
why a driveshaft in torsion is not
exactly a good idea. Many times, this transfer
of energy extends beyond the driveline
and into other components of the vehicle
- called coupling.
Simply
put, coupling is where torque excitation is transferred into the
chassis
and body from
the driveline.
It can often be "driven through" because the drivetrain has a critical
frequency
at which
it begins to resonate and the noise and vibration increase dramatically.
It should be noted
that the problem is still occurring at all speeds,
but it is just more noticeable at this
critical speed.
Pinion
Pre-load.
As I mentioned
earlier, there are variables
that can and do alter this static geometry. All vehicles, regardless of
construction, will have some tendency for the differential to rotate
upward
under acceleration. If the vehicle is to pull heavy loads for long
distances,
or expected to undergo hard acceleration with lots of torque, you may
want
to rotate the pinion downward to pre-load the driveline so under normal
operating conditions the pinion rotation will result in cancellation.
Regardless
of the application, additional pinion angle required beyond that
resulting
in perfect cancellation at rest depends on how stiff the suspension
components,
mounting bushings, springs, trailing arms, or other links with the
chassis
are. In addition, the total torque exerted on the differential and
whether
it is momentary or sustained must be considered. Most people believe
that
no more that three additional degrees of torque pre-load on the pinion
to maintain cancellation is necessary and often only a degree or so is
enough. Although not strictly a requirement of a fully functional
suspension,
a pinion snubber (a hard rubber or urethane bumper placed above the
pinion
housing) is a good idea. It can limit the rotation of the differential
without sacrificing ride quality, limiting suspension travel, or
causing
damage to the housing.
Got
It Right?
The proof of
whether you have achieved overall
cancellation is found in the lack of vibration, singing, or ringing you
have when you’ve finished the job. If under normal operation there is
no
vibration, you’ve hit it on the head. If you still have vibration that
increases under acceleration, you need to add more downward pinion
pre-load.
If you find the opposite exists - the vibration tends to decrease or
cease
under acceleration - you need to reduce the downward pre-load. This
should
not be confused with a vibration that steadily increases with
driveshaft
speed (accelerating or decelerating). In most cases, this symptom is
primarily
the result of either imbalance or excess run-out in the driveshaft.
Although
a yoke run-out problem can sometimes be improved by rotating the
driveshaft
U-joint 180 degrees in the differential yoke, this is a common
indication
of a damaged or improperly built and balanced shaft.

The acceleration and
deceleration
of the joints occur at twice per revolution and must be
precisely in synchronization
or the two ends will try to accelerate and decelerate in difference
phase. The result is flexing
driveshaft, hammering in the splines and at the gear faces, and
vibration.The way to
synchronize
is to match the pinion to driveshaft angle with the output and
driveshaft angle so they work
in unison. This is called cancellation.